Anti-Buddhism Movement in Kofukuji Temple, Nara 興福寺のお坊さんってそんなに弱かったの?

Japanese follows English. 英語の後に日本語が続きます。

Kofukuji Temple's five-story pagoda
From a low angle






















This is the five storied pagoda of Kofukuji Temple in Nara. I've been there twice a year for the last ten years, so didn't expect to take a picture of it this summer again. But during the vacation, I was reading a book about ancient Japanese history, which naturally includes historical events in Nara, one of the former Japanese capitals, older than Kyoto, and this book made me look at this temple from literally a new perspective.

Kofukuji is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Japan, but, according to the book, is well-known for being obedient to the authority.

At the beginning of the Meiji period (1868-1912), anti-Buddhism and temple destruction movement (haibutsu kishaku) occurred. This was led by the then government, mainly by people from the Satsuma Domain (the current Kagoshima prefecture), to make Shinto the state religion under the Emperor. As a result, the monks of this temple were told that they were fired and to become priests of Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a nearby Shinto organization. The temple's other assets were sold as firewood with this five-story pagoda being once for sale at JPY250 (current JPY5 million). On the other hand, monks of temples in Osaka, a prefecture next to Nara, ignored that order. Osaka people are well-known for being open, talkative and rebellious.

I learned about this event in such detail on the website (Japanese only) and don't know if the author's characterization of Nara and Osaka people is true. But this historical event made me feel closer to Kofukuji Temple because I realized that a temple is not just a religious organization, but also full of human dramas. If you are interested in another drama, a labor dispute at Horyuji Temple, another temple in Nara, read this!

ここ10年、毎年奈良に行っている。行ったら必ず興福寺には行くので、今さら五重の塔の写真を撮るなんて思ってもいなかったが、この夏は井沢元彦氏の「逆説の日本史」を読んで面白いことを知ったので、ついつい撮ってしまいました。

興福寺って廃仏毀釈の時に、「みんな春日大社の神官になれ、五重の塔も売ってしまえ」と言われ、従ってしまったんですって。あるサイトによると、大阪の寺にも同じような命令が来たけど無視。だけど奈良県民は権力に弱いので興福寺は従ってしまい、一時期、五重の塔が250円(今の500万円くらい)で売られていたとのこと。県民性の話はさておき、寺にもいろいろドラマがあるのかと、興福寺に親しみを感じてしまいました。ちなみに法隆寺の労働争議について知りたい方はこちらをどうぞ。

Hide and Seek in Nara 奈良のひょっこりはん

Japanese follows English. 英語の後に日本語が続きます。


Deer in Nara Park


Baby lizard at Enjoji Temple (円成寺)

Grasshopper at Enjoji Temple (円成寺)

Baby lizard in Ikaruga (斑鳩)

All these pictures were taken in Nara. I live in Tokyo, so have no opportunities to see deer, insects or lizards, but dogs, cats and cockroaches! They remind me of my good old childhood when I played with these bugs and lizards (but not deer!).... Can you find them?

四枚とも奈良で撮った。最初は奈良公園、次の二枚は円成寺、最後の一枚は斑鳩。東京に住んでるので、普段は犬猫とゴキブリぐらいしか見ません。子供の頃は虫たちと一緒に遊んでいたのに!鹿とバッタと赤ちゃんトカゲ、分かりますか?

Nara's Struggle to Be Visited 奈良の戦い 京都に負けません

Japanese follows English. 英語の後に日本語が続きます。

I went to Nara and took this photo of the Tokae Festival. Many festivals are held across Japan in mid-August (i.e., the obon period) to honor the spirit of our ancestry, but this one is so beautiful and mystical. 

The Tokae (燈花会; meaning lantern flower) festival started in 1999, relatively recently, and the Nara city has another more famous festival for the same period, the Chugen Mantoro Lantern Festival, which has lasted for over 800 years. 

Both are worthwhile to go and although not being a Nara citizen, I'm so happy that so many tourists came to see this beautiful scene as I know Nara has been struggling to attract tourists, who usually stay, eat and shop in Kyoto, the prefecture next to Nara. If you are looking for a nice place to eat in Nara, read my another post about obanzai cuisine Koryoriya Nara.  

奈良の燈花会で撮った写真。幻想的だった。1999年に始められたこの行事、800年続く春日大社の中元万燈篭に比べれば新しいが、とてもよかったです。私、奈良とは何の関係もありませんが、結局、京都に泊まって、食べて、買い物する観光客を振り向かせようと努力しているのを知っていたので、観光客が増えて自分のことのようにうれしいです。奈良のお勧めおばんざいやさんを知りたい方はどうぞこちらをご覧ください。

Sawtooth Oak (Quercus Acutissima) クヌギ(櫟)

英語の後に日本語が続きます。 The sawtooth oak (Quercus acutissima) is native to Northeast Asia and can be found all across Japan. While the tree is famous...