Japanese Temples, Sontaku and Venison Sukiyaki 忖度、興福寺、鹿のすき焼き

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Here are some photos of the five-storied pagoda of Kofukuji Temple in Nara Prefecture. I definitely recommend visiting it if you come to Japan. I love this old temple, though there is one wild detail: it once put this pagoda up for auction for just 25 yen at the time—which is roughly 100,000 yen (about $930 USD) today.

There was a reason, of course. The temple was trying to survive haibutsu kishaku, the anti-Buddhist movement triggered by government orders at the start of the Meiji period (1868–1912).

 
The policy sought to separate Shinto from Buddhism to make Shinto the state religion and unify the nation. Although Shinto and Buddhism had long been intertwined in Japan, Buddhist temples had historically dominated combined shrine-temple complexes. This new political shift gave Shinto proponents a chance to retaliate against their former superiors. Let’s look at this more closely, focusing on Enryakuji and Kofukuji.

Five-storied pagoda of Kofukuji temple

Pale Grass Blue (Pseudozizeeria Maha) 大和小灰蝶（ヤマトシジミ）

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A male pale grass blue butterfly (Pseudozizeeria maha) looks completely different depending on whether its wings are open (1st photo) or closed (2nd photo). With its wings closed, you might overlook it as a plain, small grey-and-white butterfly with black spots. When it opens them, however, you are greeted by the striking pale blue upperside that gives the species its name. (See the 5th photo to view both sides at once.) Because butterflies bask in the sun to warm their bodies, you are more likely to catch a glimpse of that vibrant blue during cooler sunny days.

The pale grass blue resembles the plains cupid (Luthrodes pandava) very much, except the latter has orange spots on its wings. I once mistook a plains cupid for a pale grass blue.

2025/11/2

Four Heavenly Kings & Poor Little Devil 四天王立像と執金剛神立像

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These wooden statues are the four heavenly kings. They are said to watch over the four cardinal directions. Crafted in the 14th century in Japan, they are now housed at the Tokyo National Museum. They look stronger, more masculine, and more human than Buddha statues, which generally show no emotion. But I can show you a more human god and a devil. Check out the fifth and sixth photos.

Zochoten (Virūḍhaka) Guardian of the south 増長天 南を守護

Blowfly (Stomorhina Obsoleta) ツマグロキンバエ（褄黒金蝿）

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This is a blowfly—likely Stomorhina obsoleta. It was collecting pollen on a Canadian goldenrod using its snout. Because of the snout, I thought it was a weevil at first. Stomorhina obsoleta can be found all across Japan from June to October. Its diet changes from carnivorous to vegetarian throughout its life cycle—the larvae are egg predators of locusts and grasshoppers, while the adults feed on nectar and pollen, like this one.

In Japan, they are called tsumaguro kin bae, which translates to 'golden fly with a black edge.' Similarly, the Indian fritillary (Argynnis hyperbius) is called the 'butterfly with a black edge and panther-like black spots.'

11/4/2026

Hoverfly (Eristalinus) キゴシハナアブ（黄腰花虻）

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I thought it was a bumblebee at first, but it's actually a hoverfly—likely Eristalinus quinquestriatus. These hoverflies can be found all across Japan, especially from September to November. While its slim body and uniquely mottled eyes make it look intimidating, Eristalinus quinquestriatus doesn't sting humans. Instead, they just transport pollen. In Japan, it is called kigoshi hana abu, which translates to 'flower fly with a yellow back.

11/3/2026

Bumblebee マルハナバチ（丸花蜂）

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Bumble bees are found primarily in the Northern Hemisphere—across North America, Europe, and Asia—as well as parts of South America. Around sixteen species are known to exist in Japan.

In Japan they're called 'maruhana bachi,' which translates to 'round (or chubby) flower bee.' They're also called 'flying stuffed animals'—both make perfect sense to me.

11/3/2026

Pink Wood Sorrel (Oxalis Debilis) ムラサキカタバミ（紫酢漿草）

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Pink wood sorrel (Oxalis debilis) is native to South America. It was brought to Japan during the Edo period (1603-1868) for aesthetic appeal, but it has run wild and can now be found all across Japan.

There are two main types of pink wood sorrel: Oxalis debilis and Oxalis articulata. Both are pink, though Oxalis debilis (the one in this post) is a bit more bluish and paler. For a more detailed look at the differences between the two, check out my post about Oxalis articulata!

11/3/2026

Kurogane Holly (Ilex Rotunda) 黒鉄黐（クロガネモチ）

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Kurogane holly trees (Ilex rotunda) are native to East Asia and can be found across Japan. They're known for clusters of berries that start out green, then turn orange and bright red in autumn. Don't forget their small white flowers in early summer, either—the pink parts protruding from the petals are stamens.

11/3/2026

Common Grass Yellow (Eurema Hecabe) キチョウ（黄蝶）

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I’m diurnal just like butterflies, but I rarely see them during my morning walks on workdays. Instead, around 9 a.m. on weekends, I often spot several species—like the pale grass blue, Asian comma (Polygonia c-aureum), and this one: the Common Grass Yellow (Eurema hecabe)!!

The Common Grass Yellow is a small pierid butterfly species found in Asia, Africa, Australia, and all across Japan. Because of their bright color, they are called kicho (yellow butterfly) in Japan.

One problem is that they often rest on yellow flowers, like the leopard plant. Their beautiful yellow wings blend right in.

11/3/2026

Mask of a Drunken Persian King's Servant 伎楽面（酔胡従）

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This is a mask of a drunken Persian king's servant, a 7th- or 8th-century Buddhist ritual mask. It used to belong to Hōryūji Temple, but it is now housed at the Tokyo National Museum. How did this mask move from the temple in Nara Prefecture to Tokyo?

Its former owner, Horyuji Temple, had to sell more than 300 masks and statues—including this one—in 1878 for only 10,000 yen at the time (equivalent to about 400 million yen or 4 million dollars today) to survive the haibutsu kishaku, a movement to abolish Buddhist temples and statues. This movement was triggered by the Meiji government's 1868 decision to separate Shinto from Buddhism and establish it as the state religion, aiming to modernize Japan and make it as strong as Western imperialist powers. Many, though not all, Buddhist temples across Japan were destroyed, forcing them to sell off their sacred statues and masks. Kofukuji Temple, one of the oldest and most revered temples in Nara Prefecture, even tried to sell its five-storied pagoda for a mere 25 yen—which would be worth about 1 million yen or 10,000 dollars today. Therefore, without the rise of imperialism in Japan, this mask would likely still be housed in Horyuji Temple.

Mask of drunken Persian king's servant 伎楽面（酔胡従）

Hindu Ganesh ガネーシャ

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This is a seated Ganesh statue housed at the Tokyo National Museum. Ganesh is the son of the Hindu god Shiva, and his pot belly represents wealth and abundance. Even though he is a deity, his large belly contradicts the typical image of a god. Since this statue originated in Cambodia, how did it end up in a museum in Tokyo?

According to the exhibition label, the Cambodian Ganesh came from the École française d'Extrême-Orient in exchange for another work of art or artifact. So, it must have first been stolen by France, then passed into the hands of this French school before ending up in Japan. A legacy of colonialism and imperialism, isn't it?

Without imperialism, the Cambodian deity would still be in its home country.

Seated Ganesh ガネーシャ座像