Hie Shrine 赤坂日枝神社

英語の後に日本語が続きます。

This is Hie Shrine in Akasaka, Tokyo. Although the tunnel of vermilion torii gates is much shorter than the ones at Fushimi Inari Taisha, it is still a wonderful experience to walk through.😉

Sanno torii gate 山王鳥居

Stewartia Pseudocamellia (Korean Stewartia) 婆羅双樹（ホントは夏椿）

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These are the fruits of the Japanese stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia) that I saw at Tennōji Temple in Ueno, Tokyo. It took me two hours to identify the tree for a reason you can see in the third photo.

The stone pillar in the third photo is labeled 'sal tree,' so I naturally assumed it was one and started thinking about the Taira clan—one of the four major clans that dominated Japanese politics during the Heian period (794–1185) before being defeated by the Minamoto clan at the end of the 12th century. I say 'naturally' because the name 'sal tree' immediately reminds most Japanese people of The Tale of the Heike, which opens with a reference to it.

However, the tree and its fruit looked nothing like the sal trees I searched for online. Then I found the answer: the tree marked on the pillar isn’t a sal tree at all, but a Japanese stewartia. Why this happens is unclear; some say that because true sal trees don't grow in Japan, temples plant Japanese stewartias instead because they have similar leaves and white flowers, while others believe monks simply mistook the tree for the real thing.

Stewartia pseudocamellia 沙羅双樹？

Magnolia Grandiflora (Southern Magnolia) 泰山木（タイサンボク）

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This is a Magnolia grandiflora, commonly known as the southern magnolia tree, at Tennoji Temple in Ueno, Tokyo. Can you see how big the flowers are?

The temple features several interesting highlights, including this tall tree, a Japanese stewartia (which goes by a misnomer), and a fascinating history.

The temple originally belonged to the Nichiren school of Buddhism, but it was persecuted by the Edo government. At the end of the 17th century, it was forcefully converted to the Tendai school, and two of its monks were exiled to a distant island.

The Nichiren school openly rejected other Buddhist schools, angering both priests and the country's rulers, which led to the persecution of the sect and its temples. Today, however, Tennoji Temple bears no outward trace of that turbulent past—only peaceful, beautiful trees and flowers.

Magnolia grandiflora tree at Tennoji temple 天王寺の泰山木

Floats of Monkey, Cuckoo, and Minamoto at Akasaka Hikawa Shrine 赤坂氷川神社の山車（猿、閑古鳥、源頼義）

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These are floats at Akasaka Hikawa Shrine in Tokyo. On the right is a cuckoo, which represents peace; in the center is a monkey, regarded as a messenger of the gods; and on the left is Yoriyoshi Minamoto (988–1075), a leader of the Minamoto clan.

Many shrines and temples in Tokyo once held these festive floats but lost most of them to the Great Kanto Earthquake, World War II, and the discontinuation of local festivals. The Akasaka Hikawa Shrine is no exception. Though it once organized a parade of 13 floats to protect the community, four were lost over time. Today, only nine remain, including the three pictured here. (Source: Akasaka Float Preservation Society)

 

Floats of Akasaka Hikawa shrine; "Yoriyoshi (left)," "Monkey (center)," and "Cuckoo"
赤坂氷川神社の山車 左から「源頼義」、「猿」、「閑古鳥」

Red & White Prunus Mume (Japanese Apricot) 紅白梅

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Look at the striking contrast between the red and white Japanese apricot flowers and the blue sky! I saw these Japanese plum blossoms near Kanda Myojin Shrine. A coffee shop at the entrance of the shrine was selling hot amazake, a traditional sweet, non-alcoholic drink made from fermented rice.

 
If you ever have the chance to visit Japan, the Ochanomizu area—home to Kanda Myojin Shrine and Yushima Seido—is definitely recommended. Yushima Seido is just a two-minute walk from Kanda Myojin, and if you time your visit for January or February, you can enjoy red and pink Japanese camellias there, too.

2021/2/1

Pink Knotweed (Persicaria Capitata) ヒメツルソバ（姫蔓蕎麦）

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Pink knotweed (Persicaria capitata) is native to the Himalayas and was brought to Japan during the Meiji period for ornamental purposes. It has since naturalized and can now be found all across the country. Its flowers, which bloom from April to October, start out pink and later turn white. In Japan, pink knotweed is called 'princess Chinese knotweed' because its flowers and leaves are similar to, but smaller than, those of the Chinese knotweed (Persicaria chinensis). Some Japanese terms have hime as a prefix and the prefix means small and cute.

11/6/2026

Japanese Temples, Sontaku and Venison Sukiyaki 忖度、興福寺、鹿のすき焼き

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Here are some photos of the five-storied pagoda of Kofukuji Temple in Nara Prefecture. I definitely recommend visiting it if you come to Japan. I love this old temple, though there is one wild detail: it once put this pagoda up for auction for just 25 yen at the time—which is roughly 100,000 yen (about $930 USD) today.

There was a reason, of course. The temple was trying to survive haibutsu kishaku, the anti-Buddhist movement triggered by government orders at the start of the Meiji period (1868–1912).

 
The policy sought to separate Shinto from Buddhism to make Shinto the state religion and unify the nation. Although Shinto and Buddhism had long been intertwined in Japan, Buddhist temples had historically dominated combined shrine-temple complexes. This new political shift gave Shinto proponents a chance to retaliate against their former superiors. Let’s look at this more closely, focusing on Enryakuji and Kofukuji.

Five-storied pagoda of Kofukuji temple

Pale Grass Blue (Pseudozizeeria Maha) 大和小灰蝶（ヤマトシジミ）

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A male pale grass blue butterfly (Pseudozizeeria maha) looks completely different depending on whether its wings are open (1st photo) or closed (2nd photo). With its wings closed, you might overlook it as a plain, small grey-and-white butterfly with black spots. When it opens them, however, you are greeted by the striking pale blue upperside that gives the species its name. (See the 5th photo to view both sides at once.) Because butterflies bask in the sun to warm their bodies, you are more likely to catch a glimpse of that vibrant blue during cooler sunny days.

The pale grass blue resembles the plains cupid (Luthrodes pandava) very much, except the latter has orange spots on its wings. I once mistook a plains cupid for a pale grass blue.

2025/11/2

Four Heavenly Kings & Poor Little Devil 四天王立像と執金剛神立像

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These wooden statues are the four heavenly kings. They are said to watch over the four cardinal directions. Crafted in the 14th century in Japan, they are now housed at the Tokyo National Museum. They look stronger, more masculine, and more human than Buddha statues, which generally show no emotion. But I can show you a more human god and a devil. Check out the fifth and sixth photos.

Zochoten (Virūḍhaka) Guardian of the south 増長天 南を守護

Blowfly (Stomorhina Obsoleta) ツマグロキンバエ（褄黒金蝿）

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This is a blowfly—likely Stomorhina obsoleta. It was collecting pollen on a Canadian goldenrod using its snout. Because of the snout, I thought it was a weevil at first. Stomorhina obsoleta can be found all across Japan from June to October. Its diet changes from carnivorous to vegetarian throughout its life cycle—the larvae are egg predators of locusts and grasshoppers, while the adults feed on nectar and pollen, like this one.

In Japan, they are called tsumaguro kin bae, which translates to 'golden fly with a black edge.' Similarly, the Indian fritillary (Argynnis hyperbius) is called the 'butterfly with a black edge and panther-like black spots.'

11/4/2026

Hoverfly (Eristalinus) キゴシハナアブ（黄腰花虻）

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I thought it was a bumblebee at first, but it's actually a hoverfly—likely Eristalinus quinquestriatus. These hoverflies can be found all across Japan, especially from September to November. While its slim body and uniquely mottled eyes make it look intimidating, Eristalinus quinquestriatus doesn't sting humans. Instead, they just transport pollen. In Japan, it is called kigoshi hana abu, which translates to 'flower fly with a yellow back.

11/3/2026